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"Huna fas!" - "There lies I'll Even from a distance the taxi driver from Rabat can't conceal his fascination with the city, which is also foreign to him. In his voice is that particular tone of enthusiasm that can also be read between the lines penned by Leo Africanus, one highly educated Moslem who was born in Granada and grew up in the former sultanate city of Fes. As a protegee of Renaissance Pope Leo X in 16th-century Rome, he wrote one of the earliest descriptions of Fes in a European language.

Today, at the close of the 20th century, the medina in Fes gives one the impression of being transported back to medieval times. All the people here, like the buildings, seem to come directly from another century: Forbidding walls keep the interiors of the old houses from view; veils or jellabah-hoods conceal the faces of passers-by; and the craftsmen's ateliers would better suit, for instance, the 16th than the 20th century.

In the course of time Fes has acquired a three-fold image: as "Holy City" and the intellectual-Islamic center of the Maghreb with its Kairawine University, which has produced significant ulema (religious scholars); as the capital of craftsmen and industrious merchants; and as a city of contradictions - the difference between what the fassi (inhabitants of Fes) say and actually do is legendary. This character trait is aptly described by a Moroccan proverb that Paul Bowles cites in his Fesbased novel, The Spider's House:

"You say you're going to Fes. But when you say you're going to Fes, then it means that you're not going to Fes. However, I just happen to know that you are going to Fes. Why do you lie to me - you, my friend?"

 

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