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South of Arles, the Rhône bifurcates and makes a triangular delta bounded on the east by the Grand Rhône and the Petit Rhône to the west. Some 25 miles (40km) separates the two estuaries which empty into the Golfe du Lion. In this triangle is the Camargue.
The Camargue is a strange place. Flat, featureless, windswept, mosquito-ridden, flooded or dried out, its luminous melancholy is captivating. Shallow, brackish lagoons, salt marshes and salt-tolerating plants, sand spits, coastal dunes, stunted tamarisks, small black bulls, and white horses; all these make southern Camargue a unique experience.
Coming from the direction of Arles, a quick impression can be gained by taking the D36, which follows the Grand Rhône for a while. Turn right for Villeneuve, go right again to skirt the north shore of the Nature Reserve of Etang de Vaccarès and pass rice paddies, vines and other crops in the desalinated area.
When the D570 is reached, near Albaron, a right turn ? towards Arles ? leads through the village and on to the Musée Camarguais housed in the old sheepfold of the mas (farm) at Pont de Rousty. This fine museum traces the history of the area and illustrates life in a traditional mas. A footpath of about 2.5 miles (4kms) leads through the local marsh and farm land.
A left turn along the D570 leads towards Stes Maries-de-la-Mer, passing the Chteau d'Avignon, a huge mansion with some excellent tapestries. The gardens are delightful, and are traversed by a signed botanical footpath.
Single-storeyed thatched cottages, the dwellings of the cowboys (gardians) can be seen. They are blank on their north walls to keep out the mistral and are scattered about on the approaches to the only town of any size in the Camargue.
Before the town is reached, there are two more sites of great interest. The Information Centre at Ginès explores the flora, fauna and ecology of the Camargue, and has a viewing gallery from where there is a superb view across the Étang de Vaccarés, the heartland of the Camargue. Birdwatchers will also want to visit nearby Pont de Gau. Here a trail leads through the marshland, with information boards on local species. Bulls can also be seen from the path.
At Boumain, wax tableaux recreate the way of life in ancient Camargue.
On the Camargue's eastern side the D36 and smaller side roads explore the marshland. At La Capelière on the edge of the Étang de Vaccares there is another information centre with footpaths and observation points. Southwards there are good facilities for the birdwatcher at Salin-de-Bondon, close to the only nesting site for the area's most famous birds, flamingoes.
On the D36 itself, there is a museum exploring the area's rice production just south of Le Sambuc and, near Salin-de-Giraud, a further information centre on the area's ecology at the Domaine de la Polissade. |
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