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Aosta, Grand Paradise National Park

Although the western Alps occupy an area including France, Italy, and Switzerland, they define a region with a common history and a common civilization. The Duchy of Savoy (chief town: Turin), which once included all lands around the western Alps, was politically independent from the Middle Ages until 1861. Then its territory was divided. Today Savoy belongs to France; Piedmont and Aosta Valley belong to Italy. For these historical reasons, the local people speak a variety of languages: French (spoken in Italy, France, and Switzerland), Italian, Piedmontese, Provençal (spoken in southwestern Piedmont) and Franco-provençal (spoken in northwestern Piedmont, Aosta Valley and Savoy). To complicate matters still further, in the Gressoney Valley people speak Walser, a German dialect. In fact, on regional maps, different names can designate the same place or mountain. This linguistic tapestry is often difficult for foreign tourists to understand and may cause misunderstandings. However, a photographic visit to the Grand Paradise National Park is worth coping with considerable challenge.


The Grand Paradise National Park, between Piedmont and the Aosta Valley, covers a vast area of mountainous territory, rising from 2,600 feet on the valley floor to 13,324 feet at the summit of Grand Paradise itself. It is the oldest and wildest park in the Alps, a park which--despite the inexhaustable assault of economic exploitation--is still able to offer scenery of primordial beauty. Credit for this extraordinary preservation must certainly be given to the administrators of the park itself. Despite management difficulties and continual opposition (overt and covert), park officials have prevented this area from being transformed into a huge playground, complete with ski-lifts, roads, and luxury multi-storied buildings (the sorts of developments which delight tour operators and local administrators who are, perhaps, the only people still blindly investing their energies and hopes in increasing mass tourism).


Chamois ( Rupicapra rupicapra ) are fearful and suspicious. If you're lucky, you might be able to approach a lonely young male, but when you reach a distance of about 60 feet from your subject, it will run away headlong. So you need a very long telephoto lens--500 mm or more.

The marmot ( Marmota marmota ) is a curious and lively fur-ball that runs, plays, and gobbles close to the burrows when it isn't hibernating during the winter. At the first sign of danger, a marmot sentry blows its piercing whistle and all the furry creatures disappear into their holes. To photograph marmots, you have to lie down, wait, and hide. You can also place your camera in front of a hole, go away, and watch through binoculars. When the marmot emerges from his burrow, you can take your photo by remote control. Marmots also like searching in dustbins. If you leave your rucksack on the ground, a marmot may come to check if you've brought him something to eat.


Flowers and insects are good subjects in the summer. Butterfly Parnassius apollo is one of the emblems of the park. At high altitude, above the tree line, the summer rejoices as thousands of little flowers, as well as gaily colored butterflies and grasshoppers intoxicated with love, flood the meadows with a symphony of life. You have to look carefully in the grass to spot the myriad forms of life we so often unwittingly crush underfoot. You can photograph insects very easily when they're either feeding or mating. However, if you like photographing insects, you must be ready to be stung, bitten, or sprinkled by irritating fluids whenever you cross the animal's safety limit. But it's not important.

 

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