Basilicata's regional capital, POTENZA, has suffered more than most southern towns from the effects of earthquake and war, which have robbed it of much of its historical heritage. There is still considerable restoration work in progress, and despite the dust in summer, continuing improvements have helped to make Potenza a lively, go-ahead place and an excellent base for visiting some of the smaller towns and villages of inland Basilicata, most of which are conveniently situated on the main routes to – or from – the outside world.

The Italian mainland's highest provincial capital, Potenza is built on a spur between two valleys, and presents an unpromising vista from afar, seemingly consisting of nothing but characterless modern blocks surrounded by unsightly and polluting industrial works. The town is also a trial for drivers, its confusing one-way streets clogged with traffic and almost devoid of parking spaces (make sure you're not parked illegally – tickets and fines are freely distributed). But perseverance pays off, for the animated centre, focused on the narrow, partly pedestrianized Via Pretoria, is a maze of alleys and small, sequestered squares, well stocked with bars and restaurants and at its best during the nightly passeggiata. The most important sight here, off the main Piazza Prefettura (also known as Piazza Pagano), is the church of San Francesco, which contains a Byzantine-style icon of the Madonna del Terremoto and an elaborate sixteenth-century tomb. In the modern districts spread out below, the only compelling attraction is the Museo Archeologico Provinciale (Mon, Wed & Sun 9am–1pm, Tues, Thurs & Sat 9am–1pm & 4–7pm; free) in Rione Santa Maria (north of the centre), home to the region's most important collection of finds from the prehistory of Lucania, and some good ceramics, terracottas and statuettes from Greek Metapontum.

Potenza has three train stations. The central Potenza Città station has a line to Acerenza and Gravina in Puglia, and links with Potenza Inferiore, on the other side of town, which in turn has trains to Rionero, Melfi, Ferrandina (for Matera), Metaponto, Taranto, Fóggia and Salerno; Stazione Superiore in Rione Santa Maria is a stop on the line to Rionero, Melfi and Fóggia. The independent Ferrovie Appulo-Lucane (FAL) line links all three and also serves Bari and the Potenza area. Drivers would be well advised to park below the centre around Viale Marconi, from where escalators and lifts connect with Via del Pópolo, a few steps away from Piazza Prefettura. Most buses leaving for destinations within Basilicata leave from Piazza Crispi; buses for Salerno, Naples and Rome leave from Piazza Bologna. Frequent city buses connect the modern districts with Via Vaccaro and Corso Umberto in the city centre, as do several lifts (free) and rickety stairways.

You can eat well and cheaply at the Trattoria al Duomo in Via Serrao (closed Sun), in a brick-vaulted cellar just around the corner from Potenza's cathedral (to the right of it), which serves excellent pasta dishes, including a delicious orecchiette alla boscaiola (pasta with a rich sauce of mushrooms and ham). Alternatively, the Taverna Oraziana on Via Flacco is a pleasant, casual place, occupying yet another cellar at the bottom of steps at the western end of Via Pretoria (closed Sun evening). On the northern edge of the old town, the Due Torri, on the street of the same name, is a more upmarket place, though the prices are reasonable (closed Sun).

Potenza has a few good pubs: the Barracuda, in Via Caserma Lucania (closed daytime and Mon), near Piazza Matteotti, serving panini and other snacks, and Goblin's, right on the central Piazza Pagano, which serves Irish draught beer and also makes a good breakfast stop for its cornetti and chocolate faggotti. Another good drinking-spot, popular with a younger crowd, is Carpe Diem (evenings only; no sign on the door), round the corner from Barracuda at Via XX Septembre 23, enjoying a view over the valley.