|
In 1603, Martim Soares Moreno was instructed by the Portuguese GovernorGeneral to pave the way for settlement of the coast of Ceara, and to "pacify" the indigenous inhabitants. After many years of conflict and numerous setbacks, an alliance was made with the Jaguaribe, and a fort was built at the mouth of the Rio Ceara that, with native help, successfully held off French attacks. But in 1649 the Dutch seized control of the tiny settlement and built a new fortification, Fort Schoonenborch, and at the same time laid the cornerstone for a new city.
| Fortaleza |
|
Fortified and Embattled
When, in 1654, the Portuguese wrested control of the entire northeast coast from the Dutch, the fort was renamed Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora da Assuncao. Fortaleza, (Fort) then became the (shortened) name of this city, the fifth largest in Brazil and capital of the state of Ceara, where much of daily life is dominated by the semi-arid climate of the Sertao. The state's economic mainstays include cotton and cashews, livestock raising, the textile industry and tourism.
In 1884, four years before slavery was officially abolished by Princess Isabel, Ceara became the first Brazilian state to ban the buying and selling of human beings (although the practice was not very widespread in Ceara to begin with). The bulk of the population is comprised of morenos and mulatos (descendants of Europeans and black Africans), and caboclos (descendants of Europeans and indigenous peoples).
The fort in the town center is still used as a military barracks and can be visited, but only by special arrangement. An arresting edifice in Fortaleza is the muncipal theater, Teatro Jose de Alencar, an Art Nouveau iron structure whose components were brought over from England. Its official opening took place in 1910. The theater bears the name of the city's most famous poet; its box seats bear the titles of his works; and a monument to the poet stands in Praga Jose de Alencar, the plaza in front of the theater. In novels such as The Guarani and Icarema, Alencar avoided falling into the trap of romanticizing the indigenous peoples of Brazil, and instead tried to see them objectively as an integral and real part of Brazilian life. Alencar was born in 1829. His father was a senator, and he himself became Brazilian Minister of Justice when he was only 39 years old.
Visitors who love markets won't want to miss the Mercado Central on Rua Conde, across from the Neo-Gothic cathedral. In addition to a cornucopia of vegetables, fruit, fish and spices, the marketplace affords visitors the opportunity to purchase the much-prized work of lacemakers. Coverlets and tablecloths are painstakingly produced in coastal villages, mostly by older women who are the wives of fishermen. Prices are reasonable considering the amount of arduous work involved. Lace can also be purchased in a more comfortable setting, albeit at higher prices, in the Centro de Turismo (Rua S. Pompeu), which was originally a prison and is located in a district rich in historical lore.
Excursions from Fortaleza
Trains for the two-and-a-half-hour trip to Baturite - an important regional commercial center in the highlands that was founded in 1745 - depart on Saturdays and Sundays from Esta(ao Ferrovidria. Conveniently grouped at Praqa Matriz visitors will find the Baroque Nossa Senhora da Palma, Palacio Entre-Rios, and other stately colonial buildings.
Do not interpret the heart-gladdening sight of throngs of children playing on the beaches near Fortaleza to mean that those sandy stretches are clean, because they are in fact extremely dirty and not suitable for swimming. But don't despair either: there is a beach in your future, appropriately named Praia do Futuro (Beach of the Future), and it is located in Porto das Dunas, eight kilometers southeast of town. In addition to handsome palm groves and sensuous sand dunes, the beach features boats you can rent, dune buggies, horses and surfboards you can ride, and ultralight aircraft you can sightsee from the air in.
Two kilometers away lies the town of Aquiraz (population 50,000), where some fine examples of colonial architecture are to be found. At Centro de Rendeiras da Prainha, visitors can watch bobbin lace makers (rendeiras) at work, and can also purchase the lovely fruits of their labors.
Beberibe, 78 kilometers from Fortaleza, is justifiably renowned for its delectable lobsters and delightful beach, Morro Branco. Two good reasons to venture 10 kilometers further down the road to Praia das Fontes are the freshwater cascade at the beach and the "water" cave, Mae d'Agua, which is only visible at low tide, however. This dreamscape of lagoons, dunes and pretty beaches extends as far as Arcati, 142 kilometers southeast of Forteleza, encompassing the sand- and sun-drenched swimming paradises of Fortim and Canoa Quebrada as well. | |
