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| Recife Vacations and Luxury Travel Packages |
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"Recife" means "reef": it was in this place, during the 16th century, that Portuguese sailors discovered an opening in the coral reef, and thereby an ideal location for a much-needed harbor. Until the arrival of the Dutch in the 17th century, Recife, which today has a population of over one million, was merely a port for Olinda, the wealthy administrative capital of the Pernambuco captaincy. But the originator of Recife's nickname, "the Venice of Brazil" surely never set foot in the Italian city. A more appropriate name for Recife might be the "Manhattan of the Northeast" or perhaps the "Amsterdam of Brazil." The modern-day capital of Pernambuco owes its canals and 39 bridges to the Dutch, who, in 1630, at the behest of Prince Moritz of Nassau, drained the swamps, dug the canals, and built the marvelous gabled houses, sobrados magros, modeled on those the settlers had left behind in the Netherlands.
The picturesque Old Town is situated on the islands lying at the mouth of the two rivers, Rio Capibaribe and Rio Beberibe. Boa Viagem Beach, which is on the mainland, is also called the "Copacabana of Pernambuco," and is known both for its hotels and its red-light district.
The Historic Old Town
The historic districts of Santo Antonio and Sao Josh, which are best toured on foot, can be found on the northern half of the elongated Ilha Joana Bezerra, the northern tip of which is occupied by the flamboyantly yellow Palacio das Princesas in Santo Antonio on Praga da Republica. Teatro Santa Isabel (in front of the palace) also makes its quieter, neoclassical presence felt. Built by the French architect Luis Vauthier in 1850, it is open to the public.
Though obscured from view by highrise buildings, diagonally across from the Teatro is the Capela Dourada, in the Convento de Santo Antonio, the oldest cloister and most brilliant jewel in Recife's architectural crown. Founded in 1606, the church was not actually completed until the beginning of the 18th century, and over the course of the next hundred years the majority of its furnishings were lost. However, the cupola, tiled in Moorish style, and the azulejos in the cloister have been preserved. Not to be missed on any account is the "gilded chapel," which is separated from the church only by a grating. Commissioned by a sugar baron to prove to the motherland that culture was thriving in Brazil, this most striking of Baroque spaces in Brazil was created between 1696 and 1724 by the master church builder Antonio Fernandes Matos and the wood-carver Antonio Santiago. The most impressive of the murals depicts the martyrdom of the missionaries in the Far East, while the chapel's prodigal gilding creates an atmosphere of harmonious unity.
South of the cloister at Praga da Independencia stands Santissimo Sacramento (parish church of the Santo Antonio district), which dates from the 18th century. Its deftly executed hand-carved filigreed stone facade is a visual delight.
Recife boasts 62 churches, too many for even the most ardent of art history aficionados to visit, especially in the intense heat of the tropical day. But no visitor should leave without having admired the cathedral located in the Sao Jose district. On the way there, you pass the Baroque Carmelite church of Igreja do Carmo, from which Patio de Sao Pedro (St. Peter's Courtyard), the colonial showpiece of the Old Town, can be reached. This "courtyard" is actually an enclosed colonial plaza with the Catedral de Sao Pedro dos Clarigos as its focal point. Consecrated in 1782 and restored in 1858, it is the only church in the northeast with an octagonal interior. The feeling of spaciousness within is enhanced by Joao de Sepulveda's superb ceiling frescos. The choir stalls are made of cedar, while the sacristy has masterfully carved rosewood commodes and closets.
The side streets of Recife's Old Town are packed with small stores, bars, street vendors and hustlers. In the evening, the outdoor cafes on Patio de Sao Pedro are popular places for relaxing. Weekends bring performances by folklore and samba groups, as well as rehearsals by Carnival associations.
Further east on Travessa do Macedo lies Sao Jose's market hall, Mercado Sao Jose, an ironwork structure by the French architect Luis Vauthier that harks back to Parisian markets of a bygone era.
Perched on Bacia do Pina and bearing silent testimony to the Dutch military presence of centuries ago is Forte das Cinco Pontas, which the Portuguese took over from the besieged occupiers. On the way back to the mainland, one option is to stop by at Casa da Cultura, situated on the opposite shore of the island. Here, the entrepreurnial acumen of the Pernambucanos is clearly in evidence: they even promote art in a dungeon, which is what the "House of Culture" originally was.
Museums and Beaches
There are two notable museums at Rio Capabaribe on the mainland in the northern part of the city. The Museu do Estado de Pernambuco, three kilometers from the center of town in the Gracas district, has on display furniture from the colonial era and the time of the Emperor's reign, as well as handcrafts and paintings.
Located three kilometers to the west is the Museu do Homem do Nordeste, Brazil's preeminent anthropological museum, founded by Gilberto Freyre, one of the country's foremost practitioners of this discipline. Among the diverse cultural phenomena documented by this institution are the treatment of slaves, folklore, handicrafts, sugar refining, and the musical instruments and dress of the people of the Northeast. Literatura de Corded, "literature on a string" - novels and pamphlets that can be bought or borrowed that hang from a string when on display - intrigue many visitors to the museum, as does pottery produced in the region. In his book The Mansions and the Shanties, Freyre gives an empathic and comprehensive account of Brazilian sociocultural history.
Of great importance for Brazilian national consciousness is the Parque Hist6rico Nacional dos Guararapes, 14 kilometers south of Recife. It was here in 1648 and 1649 that the Dutch were defeated in decisive battles with Portuguese and Brazilian troops, which led to the Treaty of Independence of 1654 and the withdrawal of the occupying forces. In 1656, Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres was built to commemorate this event. The church is decorated with tiled murals, as well as altars that are decorated with striking overlays of carved wood.
Piedade, Candeias, Porto de Galinhas and Tamandar, Pernambuco's southern beaches - 100 kilometers from Recife - are among the best places to swim in the northeast. At low tide you can wade to the coral reef, and when the tide comes in you can sometimes hitch a ride on a jangada. These balsa-wood rafts that fishermen sail on the open sea are held together with lashing and propelled by a single triangular lateen sail. |
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