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In the state of Parana, in an area that occupies nearly two million square kilometers, live approximately nine million people, for the most part descendants of European immigrants. Most of the state lies at an elevation of 600-800 meters, ensuring a mild climate ideal for the cultivation of coffee, mate and soybeans. Parana's shoreline is only 100 kilometers long, but some superb beaches lie just offshore on the islands in the Bay of Paranagua.


Curitiba: It's a pity that for most tourists the Paranian capital city of Curitiba (population 1.5 million) is merely a stopover on their way to the Iguaqu waterfalls, for this city, situated 900 meters above sea level and nicknamed the "Capital of Ecology," certainly merits a two- or three-day visit.

Germans, Italians, Poles and Ukranians have all left their mark on Curitiba, which has prospered since being named the capital of Parana in 1853. The city became an ecological paragon during Jaime Lerner's tenure as mayor. A muchadmired figure throughout Brazil and especially in his own region, he saved Curitiba from drowning in its wastedisposal and traffic problems. He is also responsible for the community having more parks and lakes per inhabitant than any other Brazilian city. The city's crime rate is also well below the national average, and the numerous and varied events on its lively cultural calendar are eminently affordable.

Tome Merces, the 110-meter-high television broadcast tower, provides an excellent bird's-eye view of the city's many parks and modern buildings. Since buses go right into the center of town (which is closed to automobile traffic), the best way to begin a visit to Curitiba is by strolling through its large pedestrian zone, which begins at Rua das Flores (Flower Street) and links two large squares, Praqa Santos Andrade and Praqa Osdrio. The usual stores, cafes, banks, as well as the post office, are located here, as is Curitiba's most important museum, Museu Paranaense, founded in 1916 in a 19th-century Art Nouveau palace, which was originally a government building. One of the most prestigious history museums in Brazil, it is particularly worth visiting for its extensive collections of artifacts of the indigenous Indian groups who originally lived in the region.

The inviting Museu de Arte Comtemporanea is located south of Praqa Zacarias. The cathedral on Praqa Tiradentes was rebuilt in the 19th-century in Neo-Gothic style and is not of great interest; but the magnificent 18th-century buildings of Largo da Ordem lie only a short distance away. Particularly noteworthy are Casa Romario Martins (No. 30), Sao Francisco de Chagas and Nossa Senhora do Rosario, the latter two being churches of the Franciscan and Rosicrucian orders respectively, as well as the town's most important ecclesiastical structures.

Two blocks northeast of this plaza is a restored mansion, Solar do Barao, which is now a cultural center and meeting place for art buffs of all persuasions. A few meters east lies the Passeio Publico, a seven-hectare park with a zoo, lake and walking paths.

Two of Curitiba's attractions will be of particular interest to railroad enthusiasts: the nostalgic steam locomotive ride to Lapa on the Maria Fumaga, and the trip on a modern train to the coastal city of Paranagua. This venerable locomotive makes the 60-kilometer, three-hour trip to the popular excursion destination of Lapa only two Sundays per month. If at all possible, visitors should try not to miss the breathtakingly scenic trip to the port city of the state of Parana. Trains depart relatively early in the morning from the Curitiba train station.

Paranagua: The 110-kilometer railroad that was built in 1885 from the capital of Parana to the then-important port of Paranagua once constituted an indispensable lifeline. Today, because it passes through the spectacular Atlantic rain forest, the train trip from Curitiba to Paranagu'a is mainly a tourist attraction. The train snakes its breathtakingly scenic way across more than 40 bridges and alongside numerous cascades. It's only a 56 kilometer drive from Curitiba to Paranagua on the BR 277, along which there are also generous numbers of scenic glories. A more thrilling way to get there, though, especially for devotees of winding roads, is via the coast highway, Via Graciosa, a registered national monument that was built in 1873 and part of which follows a 17thcentury bridle path. To get there, drive out of Curitiba on the BR 116 towards Sao Paulo, continue for 36 kilometers, and then proceed south on PR 410.
Vilha Velha: The strange, at times animal-like rock formations at Vilha Velha, (95 kilometers northwest of Curitiba) make an appealing day trip. This state park also has Caldeiraes do Inferno, three up to 100meter-deep sinkholes filled with water, one of which can be explored by elevator.

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