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| Upola Vacations and Luxury Travel Packages |
Destinations in Upola East Upolua, Western Upola
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Apia - Charming Little Capital
Apia, the capital of Samoa, has about 35,000 inhabitants. The main street, which begins on Apia harbor, is Beach Road. On Beach Road, toward the city, is Ma-grey-ta's beer garden (short for "Mama Grey, thanks"), where a refreshing stop and a cool glass of local beer is called for. The beer garden, under German management, brews and serves its own Vailima beer. Next to the bridge over the Vaisigano River is a legendary hotel of the South Pacific, Aggie Grey's Hotel. Aggie Grey, the charming, lively daughter of a New Zealander father and Samoan mother opened a tavern in 1930 on this location. During World War Two it became the regular drinking hole of American GIs stations on Samoa. Later it turned into a favorite meeting place for Hollywood stars like Gary Cooper, Raymond Burr and Marlon Brando. Even the British royal family dropped in for drinks. Although the tiny tavern has now become a worldly hotel, its familiar atmosphere remains. Mondays the hotel holds a fiafia, a native festival with a buffet dinner and performances of local dances. A bit farther down the road is the wooden Congregational Church, which was badly damaged in the latest hurricanes. It has since been repaired. Some of the last remains of John Williams, the missionary who fell victim to cannibalism on Vanuatu in 1839, are buried in the churchyard.
Further west on Beach Road is the Australian High Commission, the New Zealand High Commission (on the opposite side of the street an obelisk commemorates the unfortunate John Williams) and a fairly dilapidated building dating from the colonial era. On 'Ifi'Ifi Street, which turns away from the coast, is the police headquarters. Every day, Monday through Friday, at 7:45 a.m., an impressive spectacle occurs in front: the police corps, marching to the snappy rhythm of a brass band, goes from the new government building to the police station to raise the flag.
Souvenirs are plentiful at Kava & Kavings, a bit further west on Beach Road. The owner, Harry Paul, has gathered together an excellent - albeit expensive - selection of Samoan handicrafts and carvings. Paul is also an expert on Samoan culture and is the best person to consult for related questions. Your purchase can be celebrated in the bar next door, which is appropriately named Don't Drink the Water. Down the road is the true symbol of Apia, the Catholic Cathedral (1905), with its two monumental white towers. Across from it is the Tourist Bureau.
Two buildings on the spit of land west of the harbor have left a questionable impression on Apia: the Samoa Central Bank (from Beach Road outward, left) and the Government Building (right). Not only do these constructions have obvious technical and aesthetic failings, but their method of financing became a political scandal. Originally, the buildings were meant as a gift from the People's Republic of China. In fact, as it turned out, the gift was really a loan. The Samoans good-naturedly figured that the project would yield well-paying and much-needed jobs, but were disappointed when Chinese workers arrived in Apia to do the construction work themselves. The punchline to this peculiar tale is that the buildings were erected on a landfill and have already started sinking.
The post office across the street sells the colorful Samoan postage stamps that are so much in demand by collectors. The English-style clock tower, just off Vaea Street, is an unusual monument: it commemorates the Samoans who lost their lives in World War One. Shops and a small shopping center have grown up around it.
A bit further on, near the water, is the fish market, where freshly-caught seafood is sold every morning. In the old market hall, just 150 feet away (50 m), is the flea market. In addition to clothing, it sells beautiful hand-woven straw mats and sea shells. On the seaward side of the market a number of street food stalls have gathered.
The fruit and vegetable market, a potpourri of sound, color and exotic smells, is three blocks further toward the city center between Saleuefi and Fugalei streets. Many families from distant villages remain at the market until all of their wares are sold. For this reason the market is often open nights. During the day it is not unusual to see the sellers taking a nap among their merchandise, especially during the warmest hours at midday. Mothers brush insistent flies from their babies; and travel-weary farmers sit sipping their coffee or cocoa.
Mulinu'u Road follows the water and eventually comes to the Mulinu'u Peninsula and the Kitano Tusitala Hotel, the second-largest hotel in Samoa. The peninsula is also the site of both the old and new Parliament building (1972), the federal court, the Apia Yacht Club, the weather station in the Apia Observatory, built by the Germans in 1902, and a series of chief's graves and monuments. Two of the monuments commemorate German, English and American soldiers and civilians who died in the bay of Apia (see page 123) during the hurricane of 1889. Another monument honors the raising of the German flag on March 1, 1900. The Independence Memorial is a tribute to Samoa's independence.
The Papase'ea Sliding Rocks, southwest of Apia, are a delight for children and adults alike. You can take either a bus or a taxi there (but be prepared to pay an entrance fee). A trail just over a mile long (2 km) leads to the smooth, natural water slides down which bathers hurtle into natural rock pools filled with refreshing water. |
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