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The entrance to the Palolo Deep Marine Reserve is less than one mile (one km) from Aggie Grey's Hotel on the east side of the harbor peninsula, north of Vaiala Beach.
The way to the marine reserve is well signposted, so you should have no trouble finding it. This protected area along a reef just off the coast is perfect for snorkeling and swimming. Twice a year, when the Palolo reef worm rises to the surface of the water, natives come here with lanterns and nets on long poles to scoop up the "caviar of the South Seas." With any luck visitors might be offered an opportunity to try this local delicacy.
The road proceeds along a stretch of dark and wild but extremely photogenic coast, and finally arrives at Solosolo, home of the Piula Methodist Theological College, the first Methodist Missionary School in Samoa.
Swimming is possible in a natural fresh-water pool that is found right on the coast (a fee is charged). Visitors in cars may park at the entrance to the church grounds. The road turns toward the island's interior, and a few hundred yards/meters later comes to a rather low but impressive waterfall.
After the town of Falefa, which translates as "four houses," the road turns south and begins its steep climb up to Lemafa Pass. Just before the pass there is a superb view of the coconut plantations that stretch out as far as the eye can see.
As you approach the top of the ridge, you can still see the extensive damage caused by the violent hurricanes Ofa and Val, which struck the island in 1991 and 1992 respectively. The once thick tropical rain forest has been thinned out, palm trees decapitated, and other trees now stripped of their branches stand like ghosts against the sky.
Beyond the pass the road first comes to the internationally-financed Afulilo Reservoir. The road then splits: the right fork travels south to Sopo'aga Falls; the falls are visible from a small botanical garden (nominal entrance fee).
The left fork that branches off behind the reservoir is Richardson Road, a wellimproved road that will take you to Samusu and on to the beautiful coastal area of Aleipata. Picturesque villages and beaches dot the coast, and a host of small, jewel-like islands are sprinkled all along the offshore area.
The largest island, Nu'utele, is quite high and is uninhabited. People only go to Nu'utele in order to harvest coconuts and to fish.
In the 1970s, a group of American businessmen came up with the idea of building a large hotel complex on the island, but the chieftain's advisory committee held a meeting on the proposal and ultimately turned the lucrative lease offer down.
Foreigners, by the way, are not permitted to purchase land on Samoa but may only lease it long term. Samoans are also restricted in the acreage they are allowed to possess. They are only authorized to buy land in the greater area of Apia and in some areas of former trading stations.
Along the coast small huts (beach fales) are available for rent at very reasonable prices. These traditional little huts are ideal for enjoying a sheltered picnic or for an overnight stay. The beaches at Aleipatas are considered by many to be among the most beautiful in Samoa and the calm sea is great for swimming.
The South Coast Road now follows the south coast - as the name indicates - toward the west. After some 19 miles (30 km) it reaches the O Le Pupu-Pu'e National Park, a protected area where, with a little bit of luck, you might be able to spot the elusive flying fox (Pteropidae). Numerous marked trails for hiking lead through the park.
Togitogiga Falls, a 10-minute walk from the parking lot, is a perfect place for a rest stop or a cool swim. About 6 miles farther (10 km) the Cross Island Road (already described) turns off to the right and leads to Apia. |
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