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| Western Upolu Vacations and Luxury Travel Packages |
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It is not difficult to see Upolu in one day's drive, but several days should be set aside in order to get to know the island properly.
The stretch of road between Apia and the Fale'olo International Airport leads from village to village and church to church. Some villages have two or three houses of worship, which is necessary to serve the multi-religious communities, not only on Sunday, but every day. Many houses have graves in front of them where children play or dogs nap in the afternoon sun.
Although cemeteries do exist on Samoa, beloved relatives and friends are often buried at home, following an ancient tradition, near their families and loved ones, instead of being tucked away in some distant parcel of land. The number of steps on a grave indicates the importance of the occupant. In the village of Malie, for example, you can see the high grave of Malietoa Moli, a "paramount chief," who died after a short reign in 1860. In Leulumoega the very fine architecture of the Congregational Church merits attention.
The region from the airport to the ferry port at Mulifanua, from where ships leave for Savai'i, is filled with coconut plantations. The plantations, some dating back to German colonial rule, stretch out as far as the eye can see. The road continues southwest along the seashore through small neat villages and offers glimpses of the tiny islands of Manono and Apolima. Apollima is formed from a crater broken open on its northern side. A narrow passage leads into the only bay on the island, and further on to the island's village, where about 100 people live.
The coastal road continues to the westernmost point of Upolu, where the Samoan Village Resort is found. A few hundred yards further on there are boats to the island of Manono just beyond the coast. The island, with its 1500 inhabitants, is relatively heavily populated but has lost nothing of its beauty. It has no streets, no shops, no accommodations for tourists. A white sand beach and crystalclear lagoon await day-trippers who've made their way to the island. The coastal road ends slightly more than 6 miles (10 km) southwest at Samai.
A road to the right at Leulummoega leads to the interior. After five miles (8 km) southward, Alafa'alava Road appears on the left and continues all the way back to Apia. The interior of Upolu is fertile and offers a glimpse of many tropical crops: bananas, taro, yams, manioc, cacao, coffee and breadfruit trees.
The road along the coast to the southwest continues through the district of Lefaga, with its immaculate white beaches. Snow-white sand bays alternate with the gray-black of solidified lava fields. The crystal-clear water is too tempting to resist, but caution should be taken. There are dangerous currents.
The most famous beach on the island is called Return to Paradise Beach. It is named after James Mitchener's eponymous novel that was made into a movie in 1951, starring Gary Cooper and Roberta Hayes. Unfortunately, this and the neighboring beaches - like quite a lot on Samoa! - were badly damaged in the most recent hurricanes.
Great swimming is to be found several miles away from the main road at Manureva Beach (a road sign points the way). As is often customary in the South Seas, villagers charge a small fee for swimming, and use of the picnic area and outhouse on the beach.
Back on the main road, driving east, the next village is Lotofaga uta, which is in a region containing some of the island's most beautiful scenery. Its inlet, protected by a split of land, resembles an idyllic lake.
A bit further to the east is Coconut Beach Resort, a relatively expensive American hotel situated on a rather average sand beach.
At the Sinalei Reef Resort, a small first-class resort, it is well worth your while to stop off for a refreshing cocktail, and to watch the sunset from here in grand romantic style.
The Cross Island Road
The Cross Island Road begins just beyond the village of Maninoa and meanders through the interior, eventually reaching the capital city Apia and crossing the island, as its name indicates. The well-maintained road climbs steeply into the mountains, shaded on its left side by massive teak trees (Tectona grandis). The tall trees are easy to spot by their huge oval leaves. Their wood is very coveted by shipbuilders and wood carvers alike.
You will come across the Tiavi or Papapapaitai waterfall just before reaching the pass. It crashes down from a cliff more than 300 feet (100 m) high. A lookout platform near the road affords a good view and shelters visitors from the spray.
After the pass there is an unpaved road to the left that leads to Lake Lanoto'o, in the crater of the extinct volcano. It is a good one-hour hike from the end of the road to the lake. The lake is untouched and is full of goldfish, one of the rarelyvisited attractions of Upolu. The main road leads back to Apia past the farm of the Grey family and the grave of Aggie Grey, which is daily decorated with fresh flowers. Visitors are welcome
Oceania's only Bahai Temple is five miles (8 km) from Apia on the left side of the road. The Bahai religion, which was founded by Baha 'Ullah (1817-92) in Iran, honors gods of all religions and preaches friendship and peace among all of mankind. The dome of the temple soars more than 90 feet (30) skyward. The nine sides of the temple represent the nine predominant religions of the world. Adherents of all religions are invited to pray at the temple.
Soon afterwards, the peak of Mt. Vaea, the 1500-foot (470 m) "city mountain" of Apia, comes into view. A few hundred yards further on is a small company called Island Styles that specializes in the manufacture of silk-screened fabrics with wonderful traditional designs, as well as clothing made from them. It also sells fragrant coconut oil soap, fruit wine and liquor.
The suburb of Vailima is the capital's most well-to-do residential neighborhood. The road is bordered with beautifully-decorated villas.
The blue roof of the Robert Louis Stevenson house is hard to miss. The former home of the Scottish novelist and poet has been enlarged since his death and has since been taken over by the Mormons. Stevenson was already a famous literary personality when he moved to Vailima in 1890. The reason for this unusual displacement was that he hoped the warm humid tropical air would alleviate the symptoms of, if not cure, his tuberculosis.
The wooden colonial-style house was renovated in 1994 in honor of the 100th anniversary of Stevenson's death. It contains a small but interesting museum, and sells many of his works, including the best-selling Treasure Island, in paperback version in many languages. It is in his best-known book that one finds some of his most interesting and roughcut language, borrowed from the tough seafarers of that era.
Stevenson earned the love of the Samoans for his understanding, friendliness and enthusiastic devotion to the preservation of Samoan culture. They called him Tusitala, which translates appropriately as "the story teller." Stevenson's last wish was to be buried at the summit of Mount Vaea, and it was scrupulously respected.
When his wife Fanny, who was called Aolele by the Samoans, died in 1914 in California, her ashes were returned to Samoa and buried next to her husband on the mountain.
Stevenson's grave lies at the end of a 45-minute trail through the lush rain forest. A poem that he wrote is engraved on his tombstone:
Under the wide and starry sky,
Dig my grave and let me lie.
Clad did I live and gladly die,
And 1 laid me down with a will.
This he the verse you grave,for me:
Here he lies where he longed to be;
Home is the sailor, home,from the sea,
And the hunter home from the hill. |
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