| Irhil M'Goun Vacations and Luxury Travel Packages |
|
Mountain route 1809 begins right in the Middle Atlas village of Azilal, opening the way (via Ait Mehammed) to the Bou Guemes Valley. After rain or snowfall, four-wheel drive is by all means necessary. A more direct, paved all-season road over the Tizi n'Oughbar is under construction (CT 1808). It is intended to provide access to the planned winter sport resort between Jebel Ouaoulzat (3,770 m/12,064 ft) and Jebel Azourld (3,690 m/11,808 ft).
Tabant (1,850 m/5,920 ft) is the venue for the Sunday market of the broad, fertile valley of the Ait Bou Guemes Berbers. Very recently the CFAMM vocational training center was established here. Indigenous mountain guides receive training and traditional crafts are promoted. The center is always helpful with the preparation of a trek or skiing tour and also provides visitors with lodging.
Set up with guide, pack-mule and tent, in the course of a nine-day tour you can explore one of the most beautiful areas in the Central High Atlas and ascend the highest mountain in the region, the Irbil M'Goun (4,068 m/13,017 ft), which is snow-covered from November to May.
M'GOUN TREK
On the first day (Tabant-Talat Rirhan, 7 hours) one leaves Tabant heading east, hiking up the broad Guemes Valley to the nearby village of Ait Imi (1,900 m/6,080 ft), which is surrounded by walnut trees. At the end of the village is a row of grain mills that are driven by the water of a seguia (canal). Here, the ascent to the Ait Imi Pass begins, following a broad mule path, which leads south. Once, before the French authorities constructed the road over the Tichka Pass, this was a significant caravan route which connected the rose-oasis of Kelaa M'Gouna and the lower Dades Valley with the sultan's capital, Fes. The Shluh Berber tribe of Ait lmi profited from the lively traffic of goods through the territory they commanded. At 2,100 m (6,720 ft) altitude you pass by the Arhbalou n'Ait Imi Springs, and arrive at the top of the Tizi n'Ait Imi Pass (2,910 m/9,312 ft), after four hours' ascent altogether, with a splendid view of the more than 4,000 meter-high (13,000 ft) main ridge of the M'Goun Massif. The path now continues downhill into the Assif M'Goun Valley and after 2 1/2 hours arrives at the remote village of Talat Rirhan (2,250 m/7,200 ft; overnight lodging or tenting possible). If you set your sights on crossing the Atlas Range instead of making a roundtrip, then a hike of three days right along the old caravan route from Mrabtin over the Tizi n'Ait Hamed (3,000 m/9,600 ft) passing Ameskar and Alemdoun will bring you to Bou Thrarar in the south. An attractive alternative is to set off east through the Assif M'Goun Valley with its numerous small gorges, then head south following the Valley of the Roses up to Bou Thrarar. Heat resistant enthusiasts might also follow the waters of the M'Goun through the Dades and Dra Oases on out to Zagora (two weeks).
On the second day of a roundtrip (Talat Rirhan - Arhbalou n'Laasif is a 6 hour hike) one treks up the M'Goun Valley, passing the dilapidated Tighremi n'Ait Ahmed and then following the valley of the Assif Oulliliymt to the west. It is possible either to climb through the Tarhia n'Ait Allel Gorge (20 m/23 ft of rope needed) or to pass around it to the north. Later, the river bed broadens; after six hours of hiking, one arrives at the Arhbalou n'Laasif Spring (2,650 m/8,480 ft) at a suitable spot for pitching tents beneath the east ridge of the M' Goun with a view of the north face of the main peak.
On the third day (Arhbalou n'LaasifTilibit n'Tarkedit, nine hours) the route continues upriver to a path-crossing at 2,800 m (8,960 ft) altitude. Do not take the path, which continues straight ahead to the Tizi n'Oumsoud and on further into the Arous or Tessaout Valley; rather, head south, ascending to the east summit (3,993 m/12,777 ft) of the M'Goun Massif. This mountain peak is sacred to the Berbers: Pilgrims come here to make entreaties for the fertility of their fields. Follow the ridgeback to the west until reaching the trigonometric point marking the Irhil M'Goun's main summit (4,068 m/13,017 ft). When the weather is good the view from here is indeed magnificent: Over the Dades Oasis and the Je-bel Saghro south to the stony desert of the Sahara's northern edge as well as of Jebel Ayachi (3,737 m/11,958 ft) to the east, which is frequently snow-covered into May.
Hiking further west along the ridgeback the descent is via the Tizi n'Igwantoula (3,650 m/11,680 ft) and then south, arriving after nine hours at the Tilibit n'Tarkedit, a plateau with lush pastures (by Moroccan standards) at the end of the Oued Tessaout valley (camping is possible at about 2,900 m/9,280 ft).
On the fourth day (Tilibit n'TarkeditAmezri, five hours), the hike starts out along the Tessaout River until the valley narrows into a gorge. The passage through the about l5-km-long (9 mi) Wandras Gorge is for practiced climbers (armed with at least 60 m/192 ft of rope, pitons and harnesses) when the water level is down; in addition, any attempt should start from below (from Amezri), since a number of waterfalls have to be negociated. Hikers and mules circumvent the gorge to the north, ascending to 3,200 m (10,240 ft) in the process. On the way they have the option of a short detour to the south to catch a glimpse of the spectacular canyon-like Tessaout Valley. The river has scoured its way to a depth of more than 700 m (2,240 ft) through the dolomite rock. Then the path descends gently to the Tizi n'Rouguelt (2,860 m/9,152 ft), a broad mule-path, which has long been the passage through the mountains between Abachkou and the Bou Guemes Valley in the north and Skoura and the Dades Valley in the south.
One follows this path downwards, to the village of Tasguaywalt (2,300 m/7,360 ft) on the Tessaout River and then continues to the neighboring village of Amezri (2,250 m/7,200 ft), where the valley floor broadens out. Barley is cultivated on the terraced fields; nut trees flourish (simple guesthouse, tenting on the river).
Then, on the fifth day (Amezri-Ichbakan, four hours) the hike takes you gently downstream along the Tessaout River. The steep valley walls move closer and closer together until they form an imposing gorge. The valley floor broadens out again after a walk of about four hours', at which point the Ichbakan villages come into view at 2,100 m (6,720 ft). The upper village is constructed high above the river, protectively situated on a spur of rock. The rough-stone walls of the houses literally appear to grow out of the rock itself and convey the impression of an archaic fortress. A spring rises under some nut trees about half-way to the lower village (tenting or indoor lodging).
On the sixth day of the trek (IchbakanTizi n'Iblouzan, seven hours) you leave the Tessaout Gorge by way a path above the village which climbs the steep north face (700 m/2,240 ft altitude change) and thereby brings you to a sweeping hollow (abundant water in spring). This is crossed heading in a northerly direction to-wards Jebel Tignousti (3,820 m/12,224 ft). A mule path leads up to the Tizi n'Mardal Pass (3,100 m/9,920 ft). Once on the west side of Tignousti, the path continues to the Tizi n'Iblouzan (3,300 m/10,560 ft) located opposite it. From the head of the pass one can make an excursion to the summit of Tignousti (three hours). Camping at a spring below the pass to the southwest.
On the seventh day (Tizi n'IblouzanTarbat n'Tirsal, some five hours) the hiker ascends from the spring to the top of the Iblouzan Pass once again. From that point descend northwestward, then, heading west along the southern edge of the Jebel Rat (3,190 tn/10,208 ft), go around the massif, following the path which leads north to the pass of Tizi n'Kark (2,850 m/9,120 ft). A gully begins here, widening into a valley as it proceeds downhill; the village of Tarbat n'Tirsal is located in it. (2,050 m/6,560 ft; guesthouse, camping at the stream bed).
On the eighth day (Tarbat n'TirsalAbachkou, five hours) you follow a channel east up to the Tizi n'Tirghist (2,450 m/7,840 ft). A site of Neolithic rituals is located east of the head of the pass. Chiseled into flat slabs of rock are images of horsemen with lances, warriors, hunters, cattle and panthers, all worked over 4,000 years ago. Since the end of the most recent Ice Age (roughly 10,000 years ago), which in the lower altitudes of North Africa was primarily a rainy period, the Central High Atlas range has served as a retreat for inhabitants of the Sahara. Hunter-gatherers followed the herds which shrank away from the oncefertile savannah, migrating along the river courses up towards their higher-altitude sources. There, the rival tribes battled over the hunting grounds. The rock engravings obviously were part of their hunting and fertility magic and implorations for good fortune in conflicts.
From the pass the route descends continuously following the notch-valley of the Assif n'Tirghist southeast to the small village of Agard n'Ouzgad at an altitude of about 1,900 m (6,000 ft). Further downhill one soon comes upon the dilapidated Ighrem n'Oumlil fortified granary (tighermt), after which you pass by the houses of Ighbou)a. At this point the hike continues through the tribal region of the Ait Bou Oulli, along the Assif Bou Oulli as far as the village of Abachkou (1,750 m/5,600 ft). Overnight lodgings and campsites are available.
On the ninth day (Abachkou-Tabant, seven hours) the route along the bed of the Assif Bou Oulli is lined with walnut trees and heads downriver to the Saturday market of Sebt Bou Oulli and on to Assaka. At this point the mule path turns into a broad trail leading northeast to Ighir n'Ighrazene. Beyond this village one leaves the valley, ascending southeast on small paths, through a pine reforestation area and up to the Tizi n'Ougarmaghad (2,200 m/7,040 ft). Then you hike along the northern flank of Jebel Tarenfent (2,513 m/8,041 ft) high above the Jorro Gorge with a view over the wide Bou Guemes Valley. Continuing northeast, going downhill and passing the hamlet of Asuikine, you come to the valley carved out by the Arous River. After crossing the alluvial fan of the Arous, one arrives at the village of Idoukaln (1,800 tn/5,760 ft) and the bank of the Bou Guemes. The fertile floodplain soil of the astonishingly broad valley bottom was deposited thousands of years ago when a landslide dammed up the river at the valley's western end. Now, following the river bed eastward you return, via Agard n'Ouzrou, to Tabant. |
|
